Langkawi & Cameron Highland Birding Report

January 13~19, 2001

January 13: Narita -  Kuala Lumpur - Langkawi

Leaving crowded Narita Airport at 10:30.  MH 089 is also a bit crowded while more than 90% seats are filled up.  During the six hours, I mostly spent watching movies.  B-777 is not so bad unless you sleep.  “Autumn in New York” is a movie for ladies.  Richard Gire takes a similar guy as most of other his movies.  “Perfect Storm” is a typical American movie.  I wonder why Americans love a movie of natural disaster.  George Cruney is the best choice for taking a role of brave but blind fisherman who killed himself and his staffs on the boat.  A Japanese movie, “Space Travelers” has a cheap story.  Although it is an action comedy movie, I was not able to laugh the story.  While Japanese people are happy with this kind of story, I question future of the Japanese movies….

17:05, Arrived at KLIA.  We had still two hours for the transit to go to Langkawi.  I was surprised when I ordered ice lemon tea at a cafeteria.  They charged 5RM for the drink.  A Japanese group was charged more than 4,000 YEN for 4 beers + 2 dishes.  Did they overcharge for Japanese?  I’m not sure….　

19:40, Arrived at Lagkawi.  One hour flight from KLIA.  Humid climate immediately reminded me my previous Malaysian life.  A local guide (also my friend) Chin Hock had been waiting for us at the outside of the airport. 

On the way to go to our hotel, we had a dinner at a local Chinese Restaurant.  After check-in, we went into bed, though we were disturbed with many mosquitoes.

January 14: Langkawi (Datai - Gunung Raya - near airport)

At 7:00, we met at hotel lobby and left for birding.  It was still too dark for birding.  At 7:20, although it was still not bright enough, we started birding.  Chorus of Puff-throated and Striped Tit Babblers woke me up enough. 

At a low tree, which has red flowers, we found sunbirds.  They are Brown-throated, Purple-throated and Crimson Sunbirds.  Largest Brown-throated seems the strongest while Purple-throated is the weakest among the three species.  They chase around for keeping good flowers.

On a tall tree, large pigeons were resting.  They are Large Green Pigeons.  In the same tree, Thick-billed Green Pigeons were also perching.  Comparing to the preceding species, Thick-billed is much smaller.

Near the pigeon’s tree, we found a Streak-breasted Woodpecker.  The crown is brighter than similar Laced Woodpecker.  For observing the identification point on the breast, we spent for a while.

Morning forest is always fruitful for birding.  As additional species, we saw Ashy Minivet, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Inornate Warbler and Orange-bellied Flowerpecker.  Although the island is only approx. 40km away from the Malay Peninsular, number of birds is obviously less.  There are few bulbuls.  Above all, there is no Oriental Magpie Robin!! 

After the breakfast in the hotel, we went the backyard for birding.  Chestnut-headed Bee-eater and Collared Kingfisher were added into our list

Afterward, we went up to Gunung Raya.  Gunung Raya is the highest mountain in the island.  The altitude is 881m.  For the entry, we paid 50 sen and drove into.  On the way to go up, three Wreathed Hornbills flew over.  We were even able to hear the noise of their flight. 

At the peak, we saw Crimson Sunbird, Grey-faced Buzzard and Red-rumped Swallow.  There is a lookout.  The panorama is very nice.

After we had a lunch there, we saw a Great Hornbill just flew into a tree which is only 10m from us.  How massive it is! 

On the way to go down, we stopped for checking a small green bird which perched on a dead tall tree.  The small bird was a sub-adult Asian Emerald Cuckoo!  The cuckoo has a beautiful iridescent plumage on the upperparts.  The beak is yellowish while the tip is blackish.  The head is under molting while the throat is still barred. 

In the afternoon, we took a rest in the hotel.  In the backyard, we saw an Oriental Pied Hornbill very closely.  It was feeding fig on a low tree.  “twee” is a distinctive call for Yellow-browed Warbler.  It seems much common here. 

In the late afternoon, we went to paddyfield area for looking for Plain-backed Sparrow.  At a channel, we saw Oriental Reed Warbler, Wood Sandpiper and Common Sandpiper.  A large monitor lizard was swimming slowly.  In the paddyfield, Red-wattled Lapwing, Pintail Snipe and Pacific Golden Plover were seen.  Near a warehouse, we finally saw Plain-backed Sparrow.

For sleeping better, Chin Hock and I killed 5 mosquitoes in the evening. 

January 15: Langkawi

A bit cloudy day.  We started birding from near a waterfall.  A family of Spectacled Leaf Monkey was closely seen.  At the cliff, we were able to see three species of hornbills were flying around.  Especially, I was surprised when 13 Great Hornbills flew within short time.  Probably, there was a fruiting fig tree. 

Although our target was Great Slaty Woodpecker, we missed it.  When rain started, we decided to go back to the hotel for breakfast.  On the way, we saw Forest Wagtail, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha and Black-headed Bulbul.

In the backyard of the hotel, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater and Collared Kingfisher was seen yesterday.  On a mangrove tree, I found a Brown-winged Kingfisher.  At a fig tree, where we saw Oriental Pied Hornbill, a small party of Orange-breasted Pigeon was feeding fruits.

For the lunch, we went to Barn Thai restaurant.  There is a mangrove boardwalk to the restaurant.  Although we expected to see Common Goldenback or Mangrove Whistler, we did not see them.

After the lunch, we again visited Gunung Raya.  A female Wreathed Hornbill was sitting on the top of a dead tree.  A great view! 

When we stopped for waiting for hornbill’s flying, a Great Hornbill flew toward us and perched only about 10 meter from us.  It seems that they don’t scare people much in this island.  A bit higher parts on the slope, a pair of Wreathed Hornbill flew around and perched.  Again, a nice view.  Finally, another Great Hornbill came and chased out the former one.  We were satisfied with seeing Great Hornbills.  

Meanwhile, all three individuals, we saw very closely were male.  Have they started breeding?

Near the gate, we found a large hawk is soaring.  It has narrow tail and wing bars with broad wing and tail.  The large hawk is a Mountain Hawk-Eagle, should be the second record in Malaysia. 

Among a common aerial bird in Langkawi, namely Brown Needletails, several White-vented Needletails were also seen.

As the last stop, we went to Datai, again.  In the beautiful light condition, iridescent Purple-throated and Crimson Sunbirds were very beautiful.  Hill Mynas were ready to sleep in his tree hole while a Changeable Hawk-eagle was still looking for a prey along the road.   

January 16: Langkawi - Penang  - Taipin - Ipoh - Tapah - Tanah Rata (Cameron Highland)

Before leaving the hotel, we checked the hotel backyard.  Oriental Pied Hornbill and Hill Myna assembles at the fig tree.  Around a rivermouth, in the mangrove, several Brown-winged Kingfishers were seen. 

Among Black-naped Oriole, we found a strange oriole.  The head is yellow without clear black eye-stripe while the wing is mainly black with only a yellow spot on the primary wing cover.  Although we were not able to decide which species it was at that timing, now I believe that it was a male Eurasian Golden Oriole.

As the final species in Langkawi, a Black-capped Kingfisher was added with a great view.

Leaving at 11:35.  Arrived at 12:00 in Penang.  We hired a car and drove toward Cameron Highland.  The Proton car seems to be better condition than the Langkawi’s one. 

Penang Bridge used to be the longest bridge in the world.  It should be a favor of Malaysian VIP who really loves something No. 1.  

On the way to go up, we saw a large number of Grey-rumped Treeswift and a soaring Black Eagle.

Cameron Highland was cloudy as usual.  I don’t remember any sunny day here.  We parked at Tanah Rata for going into a jungle trail.  Along a stream, we immediately found a pair Slaty-backed Forktail while Large Niltava, Silver-eared Mesia and Fire-tufted Barbet were seen in the forest. 

For the dinner, we chose the steam boat.  It is a very popular here while the climate is cool. 

January 17: Tanah Rata - Gunung Brinchan - Brinchan -Tanah Rata -Gunung Brinchan -Tanah Rata

Another cloudy day.  We left the hotel at 7:00 for going to Guning Brinchan. 

Outside of Brinchan, a taxi had stuck in a hole on the road.  Did he miss driving?  Or because of road condition?

A road to Guning Brinchan is very steep.  We drove into there very slowly.  The upper parts of mountain is even misty.  On the road, we found a small bird was hopping.  A pair of Lesser Shortwing were focused on the light. 

Near the top, we encountered a bird wave.  It contained Chestnut-tailed Minla (high mountain species in Malaysia), Blue-winged Minla and Yellow-breasted Warbler.  Tiny Snowy-browed Flycatcher was found along a stream.

At lunch, we went to the Grasshopper Restaurant, though we did not order any locust nor grasshopper….  (It’s a good Chinese restaurant!)

We went back to the hotel for taking a rest for a while.  A male White-tailed Robin welcomed our coming back. 

After lunch, we went to Guning Brinchan, again.  We added Black-eared Shrike-babbler and Grey-chinned Minivet for the day.  However, we missed Rufous-vented Niltava.  Never mind, next time…. 

Last bird for the day was a male Verditer Flycatcher.  It was perching along the road near Ye Old Smoke House.  After ten minutes observation, it flew away in the dark.

For our dinner, we firstly went to Sate shop.  I often wonder how come Malay people love heavy metal songs.  It was certainly a good experience for having sate with heavy metal music.

January 18: Tanah Rata - Tapah - Tanjong Malim - Ulu Yam Lama - Genting Highland - Old Gombak Road - Ampang - KLIA

The final day for the trip. 

It was rainy.  So, we decided to have a breakfast at first.

Morning birding was started from a narrow road near the hotel.  Because of weather, we saw few movements of birds.  Tiny Pygmy Wren-Babbler and Streaked Wren-Babbler were bonus.

After going down from the highland, we had a lunch at Tapah.  Ulu Yam Lama was too hot for birding. We decided to go up to Genting Highland. 

Rain started dropped when we went up.  Fortunately, it stopped within 15 minutes.  Along a road, we found two Bronzed Drongo.  Behind the drongos, a Crimson-winged Woodpecker was creeping for searching insects. 

A large laughing call is from Helmeted Hornbill.  Chin Hock immediately found the hornbill in the valley.  The cask of the hornbill used to be sold expensively.  Because, its cask is a real bone unlikely other hornbills.  So, handy craft made of the cask was traded even more than one million US dollar.

After we found a hornbill, we encountered a large bird wave.  It consisted of Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Lesser Cuckoo-shrike, Large Woodshrike, White-browed Shrike-babbler, Sultan Tit, Blue-winged Leafbird, Blue Nuthatch, Scarlet Minivet, Black-browed Barbet, Brown Barbet and Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot.

After a while, we met another bird wave and added Eastern Crowned Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Spectacled Piculet.

A Black Gibbon was seen in the rain before leaving Genting Highland.

On the way to go to KLIA, we passed through Gombak.  At the upper valley, we were lucky to see a Rhinoceros Hornbill and a pair of Helmeted Hornbills.

21:00, we checked in at the Malaysian Airway’s counter.  We said “good-bye” to Chin Hock and took on board.

6:55 in the morning, we arrived at Narita.  Narita was only minus four degree in the morning.  I may go down to Malaysia on March for the next birding tour.

the end

Noteworthy records

1.      Mountain Hawk-eagle 1: Guning Raya in Lagkawi.  One adult was seen on 15 January about 5:00 pm. 

2.     Sand Martin 1: Among a flock of Barn & Pacific Swallows.  An adult individual was seen on the paddyfield near airport in Langkawi.

3.      Asian Emerald Cuckoo 1: at Gunung Raya.  A sub-adult male (under molting) was seen on January 14 about 14:00 hrs.  Upperparts is shining emerald green while the underparts is white with narrow bars.  Eye ring is red.  Beak is yellow with black on the tip.  Distinctive flight call of “chweek”.

4.      Eurasian Golden Oriole 1: An adult male was seen on January 16, near Ber Jaya.  It is entirely bright yellow on the head, neck, throat, breast, shoulder and the belly.  Black lore does not reach to the beak.  Black wing with yellow spots on the primary wing cover and tertiary.  Black tail with yellow margin.  The size is slightly smaller than Black-naped. 

5.      Streaked Wren-babbler: A breeding record.  One very young chick was seen in the nest, located about 2 meter height from the ground on the bank, near Strawberry Park Resort (January 17 & 18). 

Bird List of the Trip　

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